Saturday, May 28, 2011
Friday, May 13, 2011
Mountain Folk
For the past several years I have been going to the famous Deals Gap to enjoy all the roads and beautiful scenery in the Smokey Mountains. Over the years I have become familiar with the name Killboy. Killboy was always a person on the side of the road every day with an amazing job that allows him to drive these roads every day and chill out in the mountains and be a photographer (I have used a few photos on here that he took of my car as well). He manages to stay busy taking photos and selling them on his website www.killboy.com. But who was he? It wasn't until this year that I was able to put a face with name, and if you had followed the blog, you can recall the first post I made about 'Wake The Dragon' and the video that went with my post. The car that was tearing it up happens to belong to Killboy. It may be hard to tell in the photos, but the car is actually a flat silver color, being repainted from a misfortune that damaged his fender and brought about the Replica Amuse GT1 setup, that turns out to be Killboy's Autobot for tearing up the Dragon everyday. Suspension is simply modded with Buddy Club Race Spec coilovers, AEM intake, and a full exhaust set up. And of coarse all the small mods everyone else finds. The main thing here is how little is really done to the car and how fast he drives it, it's always amazing to see him flying around the corners, but most of the time you will see it parked on the side of the road. Another cool thing is his wife has recently picked up an S2000 as well. It would be easy to go on and on about how he has an awesome job and gets to hang out with his flat silver Autobot all day, but his mountain toys don't stop there. He also has Evo, Mini, sport bikes, god knows what else, pocket bikes, and big wheels (Not Rims). If you check out the link you will see videos. Check them out! It's pretty wild to see these custom big wheel/kids with adult riders big wheel videos. Make sure if you go to Deals Gap that you go to his website and buy a couple of pictures, his awesome photos that most likely he took of you, because he keeps up with all things going on in the mountains and helps clear debris off the road and also if your an IPhone addict, make sure to download his app Killboy from the App Store! The App is pretty cool because he always posts some of the photos he takes each day that he likes with a short caption, and theres no telling what you will see. Another great feature on the App is all the maps of the best roads to drive in the area.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Sway Bars or Anti Roll Bars
Recently I have been in a few discussions involving sway bar combos. One should know that it's always not necessarily the best solution to run giant sway bars. There is a lot to consider such as tire sizes, width combos, suspension stiffness, and general driving characteristics. Another thing to consider is the price, such as using a combo using an array of OEM bars vs aftermarket. Also, another thing to make sure to check is the condition of bushings for the bar as well as the end-links and proper torque. Recently Eibach has released some sway bars for a great price, and some other brands have developed bars with adjustable end-links so you can really dial in your liking. If you didn't already know a sway bar connects one side of the suspension to the other and sends force from one side to another, the larger the bar, the stiffer the roll will be in a turn making it more difficult for the tire to roll over on its contact path. Changing this will affect over and understeer conditions. Ill try to update this as the thread grows or I find more.
The List (From S2KI The Great Sway Bar Thread http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/351694-the-great-swaybar-thread/page__hl__sway+bar+sizes)
OEM Sway Bars
AP1 2000-2001
F: 28.2x5.0mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-003)
R: 27.2x5.3mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-013)
AP1 2002-2003
F: 26.5x4.5mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-013)
R: 27.2x4.5mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-J01)
AP2 2004-2007
F: 26.5x4.5mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-023)
R: 25.4x4.5mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-J02)
AP2 2008-
F: 27.2mm
R: 25.4mm
AP2 CR
F: 28.6mm
R: 26.5mm
Aftermarket
Alex
F: 32.0mm
R: 24.5mm
R: 30.0mm
ASM:
F: 25.4x4.0mm
F: 31.8x3.7mm
R: 25.4x3.0mm
R: 30.2x3.5mm
Comptech:
F: 31.75mm
R: 31.75mm
Cusco:
F: 32mm
R: 30mm
Gendron:
F: 31.75x4.76mm
F:31.75x6.35mm
F: 31.75mm
Mugen:
F: 25.4mm
F: 31.8mm
R: 25.4mm
R: 30.0mm
Saner:
F: 31.75mm 3 position adjustable
Spoon:
F: 27x4.8mm
R: 27x4.3mm
SWIFT:
F: 87% stiffer
R: 116% stiffer
*compared to Early AP1 ('00-'01)
Tanabe:
F: 30.4mm
R: 30.4mm
Whiteline:
F: 30.0mm
R: 30mm
STsuspensions
F: 28.2mm
R: 27.2mm
Eibach
F: 32mm
R: 29mm
Stole this photo from MAXREV, But he also has a nice thread here and a review of the Eibach http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/822700-eibach-sway-bars-review/
The List (From S2KI The Great Sway Bar Thread http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/351694-the-great-swaybar-thread/page__hl__sway+bar+sizes)
OEM Sway Bars
AP1 2000-2001
F: 28.2x5.0mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-003)
R: 27.2x5.3mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-013)
AP1 2002-2003
F: 26.5x4.5mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-013)
R: 27.2x4.5mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-J01)
AP2 2004-2007
F: 26.5x4.5mm (P/N: 51300-S2A-023)
R: 25.4x4.5mm (P/N: 52300-S2A-J02)
AP2 2008-
F: 27.2mm
R: 25.4mm
AP2 CR
F: 28.6mm
R: 26.5mm
Aftermarket
Alex
F: 32.0mm
R: 24.5mm
R: 30.0mm
ASM:
F: 25.4x4.0mm
F: 31.8x3.7mm
R: 25.4x3.0mm
R: 30.2x3.5mm
Comptech:
F: 31.75mm
R: 31.75mm
Cusco:
F: 32mm
R: 30mm
Gendron:
F: 31.75x4.76mm
F:31.75x6.35mm
F: 31.75mm
Mugen:
F: 25.4mm
F: 31.8mm
R: 25.4mm
R: 30.0mm
Saner:
F: 31.75mm 3 position adjustable
Spoon:
F: 27x4.8mm
R: 27x4.3mm
SWIFT:
F: 87% stiffer
R: 116% stiffer
*compared to Early AP1 ('00-'01)
Tanabe:
F: 30.4mm
R: 30.4mm
Whiteline:
F: 30.0mm
R: 30mm
STsuspensions
F: 28.2mm
R: 27.2mm
Eibach
F: 32mm
R: 29mm
Stole this photo from MAXREV, But he also has a nice thread here and a review of the Eibach http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/822700-eibach-sway-bars-review/
The Big 1000
The Blog has hit 1000 posts so as long as it continues to increase I will keep updating it. I have now added a Facebook Fan Page, so that you can enjoy my page and help promote it by clicking the "Like" tab. If you are new, Welcome!!, and feel free to take some time and click through some old posts!
Thanks For The Support!
Thanks For The Support!
New Shoes
Im not really big into shoes, so therefore I don't wear flat billed hats either, and Im not too color coordinated. So, on occasions I do end up buying a new pair of shoes, short of buying a full blown driving shoe, I tend to like shoes that compliment driving. I happened to stumble into a local Journey's shoe store and a pair of shoes caught my eyes because they looked nice and simple, and had a price right up my alley ($49.00). Upon closer inspection, I noticed it was a brand I had never heard of, kinda going back to the fact that I don't keep up on trends, Onituska Tiger. Looked them up on the internet and it turned out that it was a Japanese company, that's kinda cool. Don't worry JDM fan boys and girls, the shoes were made in Thailand with the rest of your fake parts. Apparently the sizes are Unisex/Women's, so if you're a man and order some off their website or wherever, order a half size smaller, from what I found trying them on. Here is the run down on these things, they are inexpensive compared to other shoes, light weight, the bottom is smooth, and the heel is made nice for relaxing on the floor, they are fairly comfortable compared to other shoes like this, and most important they look good. Morale here is this was something new to me and think they would be a nice driving shoe, therefore I just wanted to share them.
You can check there website out here http://www.onitsukatiger.com/en-uk
You can check there website out here http://www.onitsukatiger.com/en-uk
Sunday, May 8, 2011
AUTO X Schedule/Track Schedule
If you live around Memphis TN area I made this handy schedule for myself. I don't make it to many of them because of my work schedule But I believe this will be easier. Regardless Ill try to make a short post a week before the Event with a reminder and more information with important information. Also whatever events I come across I will try to add.
- May 14-15 Columbus MS AFB AUTO X
- May 21 Millington Airport AUTO X
- May 28 Millington Airport AUTO X
- May 29 Memphis International Raceway/Millington Airport AUTO X
- June 11 Millington Airport AUTO X
- June 11-12 Blytheville Aeroplex AUTO X
- June 25-26 Grenada Airport AUTO X
- July 8 Holly Springs AUTO X NIGHT!!!!
- July 9-10 Memphis International Raceway NASA Road Racing
- July 16-17 Columbus MS AFB AUTO X
- August 13-14 Grenada Airport AUTO X
- August 19 Holly Springs AUTO X NIGHT!!!!
- September 10-11 Columbus MS AFB AUTO X
- September 17-18 TBA AUTO X
- September 24 Millington Airport AUTO X
- October 1-2 Blytheville Aeroplex AUTO X
- October 22 Millington Airport AUTO X
- October 30 Millington Airport AUTO X
- November 5-6 Grenada Airport AUTO X
- November 13 Millington Airport AUTO X
- November 19-20 Memphis International Raceway NASA Road Racing
- December 4 Millington/Keras AUTO X
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Tein Flex/EDFC Another Chapter Closed
Ok, im going to start off with this, I like Tein (I pronounce it "Tane") products. Most people tend to talk shit about Tein for what ever reason rather it be not all their products are made in Japan, or whatever..uneducated or rather JDM Fan Boy, I believe this should be summed up as ignorance, so I can't hold stupid against you, I digress. Anyway, I have had several Tein products and installed them always without a hitch, and never had a problem with technical support or having parts rebuilt. I also like how several installation instructions are available online, which is always handy because I never seem to be working on installations or trouble shooting during normal hours of business. For my ability I finally felt comfortable on the Flex's and believe I had them dialed in to the best of my skills, granted I am no professional. I was pleased with them overall, for the price $1439.00 not bad and the ride was good. Of course the quality was great as well, and I have always been attracted to the signature green color. You might be wondering if you could live with these on a daily basis, the answer is absolutely. These are 16 way adjustable dampening/rebound and include standard 10k springs (559lbs) front and 12k (671lbs) rear, and there is a huge difference in the way these handled from soft to firm. I ran mine on the stiffer side, but thats just what seemed to work for me, and I liked the feel of the ride and steering input/response. Another thing I need to add about Tein products, the jam nuts they use have a nice deep groove so the spanner wrenches slip less. Most of the time I used a wire brush on the threads then loosened the jam nut and was able to adjust with my hand, instead of have to crank the collars for height. Another nice thing for the wrenches when making adjustments that are tight, you can put a 1/2 inch drive ratchet/breaker bar on the spanner to get more leverage. Moving on to the EDFC, is it necessary? No. Is it handy? Yes it is. It's handy to be able to adjust on the fly. It's kind of a pain to install with all the additional wire length, however, it is universal and too much is better than not enough. There is another problem on S2000's with the EDFC, where the hell to mount the box. I believe I found the best place I could that worked for me. I took these photos while removing mine, so keep in mind I am trying my best to write this in reverse order but if you're removing your factory suspension, follow these steps.
Is this easy? Yes pretty much basic.
Do I need special tools? A pry bar is handy! I pried on the inside lip on the shock tower and on the upper control arm
Ratchet &14,17, 12mm
All the basic requirements jack, stands, lug socket, torque wrench.
Pocket flat head screw driver *If your installing EDFC
What will I need, Locktite *If you are installing EDFC
Here is the Flex setup with EDFC
Lets start off now by lifting the car up, remove all 4 wheels, open trunk and hood.
*Note that your jack height may limit you to using wood to lower your wheels onto once completed to roll the jack out
We can start on the front lower 17mm bolt from the control arm, then remove the 2 14mm shock tower nuts. Now you can use a pry bar and pry down like i did and then just slide the shock out.
*Note for the brake line make sure to remove the 10mm bolt holding to the shock first, you can reuse this on the Flex, however I used zip ties for whatever reason.
Moving on to the Rear suspension, you will have to work through the trunk, pull the spare tire out and pull back the rest of the paneling to reveal your space
Start off by removing the gray factory brace, it has two 12mm on each side, then the bar just lifts out of the way.
The left rear will be a task, while the right rear will be easy. Just follow the same steps as the front and the coilover should come right out, including the pry location I have photoed. The Left rear, I was able to get to both bolts with short extensions, if you can't, you can remove the nut inside the fuel door, it's either an 8mm or 10mm, I don't remember off hand and then push the filler pipe back into the car and you can get more room.
Make sure to to repeat all of these steps in reverse and torque to the specifications.
Adjusting dampening, I believe adjusting manual is clockwise is stiffen and counter clockwise is loosen. Adjusting the height loosen the lower lock ring and make sure the two upper lock rings are tight together and you should be able to spring the body up or down by hand, you may have to put a spanner on the two lock rings together to get leverage to turn. Adjusting the spring will change your preload. The springs will settle over night, so remember while adjusting height an inch change in distance between the upper 2 lock rings and lower lock ring, will be reflected in small adjustments I usually go just a 1/4 inch at a time and then lower and see how I liked it and if I could get my suspension geometry to look correct.
EDFC........=Endless Damns Fun Controller
You need these instructions http://www.tein.com/tech_info/inst/edfc.pdf
You will have four motors with a rubber cover boot and a short pig tail. To install these, if you have the ratchet setup for adjusting dampening, you will need the wrench for sale on Teins website to remove this. "Click assembly 8mm" a regular wrench is too thick http://www.tein.com/online_shop/wrench.html and then install the hex bolts for the EDFC.
A quick run down once the click assembly is removed, put a few drops of locktite on the threads, then you place the motor on top and then use a small pocket screw driver and turn the screw 3 full turns clock wise, then thread the motor on the damper until it bottoms out. Repeat this on all corners. The wire harness is all labeled and it's all plug in play, you route the wires however you want. The front I ran through the firewall below the clutch master cylinder, I then removed the rubber boot and pulled the foam back, then used a wire coat hanger with the wire taped to the end and carefully fed it through the firewall. The back wires I routed under the leather around the transmission tunnel to the back and through the plastic behind the drivers seat. Mounting the EDFC module, I mounted underneath the dash by my knee, it makes it more difficult entering and exiting the seat, but once in the seat it's not in my way and I am 5 foot 11. Last, you will need to wire it in accordance with the EDFC instruction manual, it's only 4 wires so its not bad.
Is this easy? Yes pretty much basic.
Do I need special tools? A pry bar is handy! I pried on the inside lip on the shock tower and on the upper control arm
Ratchet &14,17, 12mm
All the basic requirements jack, stands, lug socket, torque wrench.
Pocket flat head screw driver *If your installing EDFC
What will I need, Locktite *If you are installing EDFC
Here is the Flex setup with EDFC
Lets start off now by lifting the car up, remove all 4 wheels, open trunk and hood.
*Note that your jack height may limit you to using wood to lower your wheels onto once completed to roll the jack out
We can start on the front lower 17mm bolt from the control arm, then remove the 2 14mm shock tower nuts. Now you can use a pry bar and pry down like i did and then just slide the shock out.
*Note for the brake line make sure to remove the 10mm bolt holding to the shock first, you can reuse this on the Flex, however I used zip ties for whatever reason.
Moving on to the Rear suspension, you will have to work through the trunk, pull the spare tire out and pull back the rest of the paneling to reveal your space
Start off by removing the gray factory brace, it has two 12mm on each side, then the bar just lifts out of the way.
The left rear will be a task, while the right rear will be easy. Just follow the same steps as the front and the coilover should come right out, including the pry location I have photoed. The Left rear, I was able to get to both bolts with short extensions, if you can't, you can remove the nut inside the fuel door, it's either an 8mm or 10mm, I don't remember off hand and then push the filler pipe back into the car and you can get more room.
Make sure to to repeat all of these steps in reverse and torque to the specifications.
Adjusting dampening, I believe adjusting manual is clockwise is stiffen and counter clockwise is loosen. Adjusting the height loosen the lower lock ring and make sure the two upper lock rings are tight together and you should be able to spring the body up or down by hand, you may have to put a spanner on the two lock rings together to get leverage to turn. Adjusting the spring will change your preload. The springs will settle over night, so remember while adjusting height an inch change in distance between the upper 2 lock rings and lower lock ring, will be reflected in small adjustments I usually go just a 1/4 inch at a time and then lower and see how I liked it and if I could get my suspension geometry to look correct.
EDFC........=Endless Damns Fun Controller
You need these instructions http://www.tein.com/tech_info/inst/edfc.pdf
You will have four motors with a rubber cover boot and a short pig tail. To install these, if you have the ratchet setup for adjusting dampening, you will need the wrench for sale on Teins website to remove this. "Click assembly 8mm" a regular wrench is too thick http://www.tein.com/online_shop/wrench.html and then install the hex bolts for the EDFC.
A quick run down once the click assembly is removed, put a few drops of locktite on the threads, then you place the motor on top and then use a small pocket screw driver and turn the screw 3 full turns clock wise, then thread the motor on the damper until it bottoms out. Repeat this on all corners. The wire harness is all labeled and it's all plug in play, you route the wires however you want. The front I ran through the firewall below the clutch master cylinder, I then removed the rubber boot and pulled the foam back, then used a wire coat hanger with the wire taped to the end and carefully fed it through the firewall. The back wires I routed under the leather around the transmission tunnel to the back and through the plastic behind the drivers seat. Mounting the EDFC module, I mounted underneath the dash by my knee, it makes it more difficult entering and exiting the seat, but once in the seat it's not in my way and I am 5 foot 11. Last, you will need to wire it in accordance with the EDFC instruction manual, it's only 4 wires so its not bad.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Hanger 9 Motorsports
With the struggle of learning how to Blog, and work I am going to be taking another plunge starting a small online business to help streamline the flow of good quality parts, and maintenance needed parts. I will keep you up to date on this. It looks like the next articles will be about coilovers, Tein Flex, Tein RS, and Tein S Tech springs. Stay tuned!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)