I'll start off by saying that there are some things I would not buy from Megan Racing, just personal opinion. With that being said, here's the deal price on a part that will need to be replaced fairly often. With my luck the rear tie rods have lasted 1 - 1.5 years, this entailed alot of street driving keep in mind. But the fact is I have bought J's Racing ($635.00), then I replaced them with T1R (359.00) that was exactly like the j's but another color. These once again wore out, so I was going to give the EVS Tuning ($350.00) a shot. Right before I pulled the trigger, I came across Megan Racing ($160.00). Reason was I could roughly buy 2 sets before I paid for another brand. The Megan Racing is made simpler than the the others and it is not anodized, it's painted. It came with all the hardware required, as did the others. Bottom line the Megans have Hime Joints just as the others, so it's going to function the same as the rest that have Hime joints. Im not sure if Megan sells replacements ends but I would say I'm sure they do, I found that J's and T1R's I was quoted roughly $180.00, plus the fact they would have to order them, EVS said they sell replacement Hime joints as well. On the board I have read threads where people had replaced their J's with Aurora Hime joints, but I was never able to source a part number. Im sure you can see where I am going with the money thing by now on these. If you have Any of these aftermarket toe arms how do you know that their bad? If your back end starts to feel a little more twitchy or unstable a worn out Hime joint could be the cause. So jack up the car and move the wheel left to the right and up and down, in my case in all these directions you could feel and hear a "click". Garbage now. How easy is this to change? It's pretty easy.
Jack the car up and place on a stand, don't forget to chalk the front wheels.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the top side of the hub.
Use an 3/4 extension plus on the exposed shank sticking through the hub and hit the extension with a ball ping hammer. It has a interference fit so it may take a few strikes.
Remove the adjustment cam bolt on the inside.
Tap the toe arm now and it should fall out.
Now try to measure from center to center of the old bar and adjust the new bar as close to that as you can. Try to adjust the inside and outside adjustment evenly to make it easier for future adjustment.
Install the new stud and tighten it down to the hub.
Now install the bar to the inside cam bolt.
On the outside stud you have to get the geometry correct. I used 2 spacers above the bar and installed the third below the bar. The one below doesn't affect geometry.
Tighten the Tie Rod ends.
Install the new cotter pin
Now go get an alignment because all your adjustments will have been changed slightly and slightly can reflect alot.
If you are thinking about picking these up, here's what they do. You get more adjustment for your toe angle because the rod has movement on the inside and out, as well as the cam bolt and eccentric. The hime joint as opposed to the ball in socket does not move as much while cornering or on uneven surfaces. Next the stud on the hub has spacers to adjust the angle of the tie rod. Meaning when the car is lowered suspension geometry is changed and the spacers allow for the geometry to be re alined. If you're wondering what bump-steer is, its caused by the angle of the toe moving toe in and toe out. Its reflected to the driver to what sometimes feels as the back end is raising up and down. The hime joints reduce this.
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