Stainless Steel Brake Lines

This weekends project on a friends car was to install some Earls Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines, and of course replace the fluid with some ATE Super Blue as previously discussed on here. So lets knock out a few facts as usual on these lines. First off its a very noticeable upgrade for a braking system, and its cheap usually around $100.00, so this falls in the good dollar per mod money. What's the advantage? there is a number of advantages, however the top ones are, OEM rubber lines tend to expand under braking thus you loose the fee on your pedal. So with these installed you obtain much improved brake pedal feel during braking as the brakes heat up, you still maintain the feel up until the brake pads fade. The lines also do not flex as much and become more durable from debris on the ground. This is just part of the brake upgrades that consist normally of lines, fluid, pads, and rotors. You will lose fluid in the process and have to bleed your brakes after the install so you might as well flush the fluid afterwards. I would put this mod as a very easy mod for anyone to install with basic tools and knowledge, the hardest part will be bleeding the brakes, so if you're not confident, I would not tackle it because until the brakes are bled, you can not drive your car.
Tools needed
-10mm open ended wrench
-Vice Grips (just in case)
-14mm Socket
-10mm Socket
-Ratchet
-Pliers
-19mm Open Ended Wrench (Or An Adjustable Wrench)
-21mm Open Ended Wrench (Or An Adjustable Wrench)
-Drip Pan

Get the car up on all four jack stands and remove the wheels. Doesn't matter where you start but the front lines are different than the rears. However, the Earls happened to be marked and also marked Left and Right. If you start on the rear, use 10mm open end wrench and loosen the brake line from the hard line, don't forget to have the drip pan under here as the fluid will drip out. A quick tip is if the 10mm feels like it is starting to round, stop and put the vice grips on it to loosen it, once it's loose use the 10mm again to finish removing it. Now once that is un hooked, use the pliers to pull the metal tab off so that the hardline end of the brake fluid will be loose and able to be removed. Next, remove the black cover of the brake spring, it has a 10mm bolt on the top and side, finagle this off. Now remove the two bolts holding the line to the shock and the caliper. Finally, use a 14mm socket to remove the brake line from the caliper, make sure the crush washer is off the caliper and the bolt there is one above and below the brake line. Discard the brake line and make sure to keep the bolt. Installing the new brake line is just the opposite, you may have to play with the line to get it to bend correctly. The tab you removed is replaced by a nut on the top and bottom of the factory bracket. Tighten than then tighten the fitting back into that from the hardline, when it comes to the caliper re-use the old bolt, replace a crush washer above and below the line and tighten down, make sure not to over tighten. The front is the same process, if your coilovers do not have brackets on them for brake lines, just throw a zip tie around the shock and through the tab on the brake line to keep it from getting tangled. Make sure everything is tight and add fluid and refer to my post on replacing brake fluid and bleeding. Once completely done, take it for a spin and enjoy the added brake feel!